Boats
Building an Iain Oughtred 'Puffin'
2nd November 2003 to 30th January 2003

Building an Iain Oughtred 'Puffin'

After building Gavin Atkin's Mouse design using the Stitch and glue method, I decided I wanted the challenge of something more complex. Increasingly, I was settling on the idea of building something using the clinker-ply method. I decided to build Iain Oughtred's 'Puffin', a lovely looking little dinghy. Clinker-Ply is similar to the traditional clinker method but with three main differences: the planking uses marine ply instead of timber, the planks are held together using a strong glue, intead of being clenched together using copper nails, and because of the innate strength of the plywood, and the stiffnes that comes with gluing the planks, there is no need for steamed timbers (ribs). But still, clinker ply is similar enough to the traditional method to give a good appearance to the boat, and to present an interesting challenge to the builder.

Progress seemed pretty good from the starting time of September 2003, through to the planking being completed in March '04, and much of the fitting out done by summer (I was aiming to be finished by this time). Progress during the summer of '04 has been much slower; I have found myself busy with all sorts of other things. By mid-September '04, all the parts for the hull are almost complete. Just a few finishing touches to the last components, then it will be a lots of cleaning up to do, then varnishing and painting. Dec '04: The hull is complete and ready for painting and varnishing. Before doing that though, the last of woodwork will be done. The daggerboard, the rudder and the yard have all been completed.

The Puffin was eventually completed and launched in May '05. She's called "Lazy Daze", a reflection of how I built her, and how I sail: no hurry, no racing; just sail in a steady lazy daze. Her first sail was a short one at Hoylake (on the Wirral peninsula, over the River Mersey from Liverpool). The wind was pretty brisk to start with, so I reefed the sail, but on launching her the wind had dropped. I'd forgotten my oars, so I got a little nervous when the tide was slowly taking me away, but I caught enough breeze to get me moving and I got back without a drama. In the summer I took her to Brittany for the family holiday, and got a few short trips out on her. Now that I'm getting to know her, and her abilities, I'm very much more confident with her and enjoy sailing her immensely. I may make one or two modifications, such as side-benches, and I'd may consider making a tent for over-nighting.

Enjoy the pictures, and feel free to drop in any questions or comments.

Cheers
Graham

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Taken from Iain Oughtred's Catalogue (I hope he doesn't mind) - a Puffin with a standing lug rig, which is how I intend to rig mine for it's sheer simplicity and ease in rigging (no stays).
Taken from Iain Oughtred's Catalogue (I hope he doesn't mind) - a Puffin with a standing lug rig, which is how I intend to rig mine for it's sheer simplicity and ease in rigging (no stays).
 Another, rather tempting image from the catalogue. I love her lines, and that deep forefoot, and the slight tumblehome at the stern.
Another, rather tempting image from the catalogue. I love her lines, and that deep forefoot, and the slight tumblehome at the stern.
And so, down to business. The building frame with the moulds in place. The Batten is keeping the moulds in posiiton vertically, using two braced moulds as an anchor. Not much room in the garage.
And so, down to business. The building frame with the moulds in place. The Batten is keeping the moulds in posiiton vertically, using two braced moulds as an anchor. Not much room in the garage.
One of the two braced moulds that keep the others in position vertically via a batten until the keelson is fixed in place.
One of the two braced moulds that keep the others in position vertically via a batten until the keelson is fixed in place.
 The inner stem. A lot of work went into this. The difficult bit was the inner curve, for which I made a number of sawcuts, then chiselled away most of the wood before making lots of use of a spokeshave, rasp and file.
The inner stem. A lot of work went into this. The difficult bit was the inner curve, for which I made a number of sawcuts, then chiselled away most of the wood before making lots of use of a spokeshave, rasp and file.
 The transom, with the hole cut for the tiller, and shaped for the plank lands and keelson. Made from 2
The transom, with the hole cut for the tiller, and shaped for the plank lands and keelson. Made from 2" wide Utile.
 The inner stem mounted on the frame and braced to keep it vertical and to take the strain of planking. Careful alignment was needed. A block is used to attach the stem to the mould. I also had to make a cut in the frame as I'd forgotten to make allowance for the stem placement when building the frame.
The inner stem mounted on the frame and braced to keep it vertical and to take the strain of planking. Careful alignment was needed. A block is used to attach the stem to the mould. I also had to make a cut in the frame as I'd forgotten to make allowance for the stem placement when building the frame.
Hanging the transom. This took a while to do single-handedly as I had to make sure it was centred and that the sheer height was correct on both sides. It was a bit of a handful, but I finally got it clamped in place before screwing it onto the posts (which are carefully angled at 87 degrees).
Hanging the transom. This took a while to do single-handedly as I had to make sure it was centred and that the sheer height was correct on both sides. It was a bit of a handful, but I finally got it clamped in place before screwing it onto the posts (which are carefully angled at 87 degrees).
 The keelson gets roughly shaped at the forward end and then epoxied to the stem. Because it to pull the keelson down, some firm clamping was needed.
The keelson gets roughly shaped at the forward end and then epoxied to the stem. Because it to pull the keelson down, some firm clamping was needed.
 With the clamps removed and some of the fairing done. Constant use of a batten is needed to make sure the curve is nice and fair.
With the clamps removed and some of the fairing done. Constant use of a batten is needed to make sure the curve is nice and fair.
 Nov '03: The keelson notch in the transom has to be angled to give a good fit. A batten is used to give the correct angle and saw cuts made as a guide before removing the wood and finishing off.
Nov '03: The keelson notch in the transom has to be angled to give a good fit. A batten is used to give the correct angle and saw cuts made as a guide before removing the wood and finishing off.
The transom notch is finished. The holes are to help adhesion when the epoxy is applied.
The transom notch is finished. The holes are to help adhesion when the epoxy is applied.
 The keelson is brought down to the transom to be epoxied in place. A Spanish windlass is used to help force it into position. The keelson will later be cut back and planed flush with the transom.
The keelson is brought down to the transom to be epoxied in place. A Spanish windlass is used to help force it into position. The keelson will later be cut back and planed flush with the transom.
 Angle brackets are used between the moulds and keelson to keep the moulds in place, and to allow the temporary batten to be removed ready for planking.
Angle brackets are used between the moulds and keelson to keep the moulds in place, and to allow the temporary batten to be removed ready for planking.
 Now for the process of fairing. First, the keelson is to be bevelled to take the garboard (first strake). Sawcuts in line with the moulds indicate where to plane down to.
Now for the process of fairing. First, the keelson is to be bevelled to take the garboard (first strake). Sawcuts in line with the moulds indicate where to plane down to.
Planing down to the cuts. Between the moulds, the bevel changes gradually, which means some twist in the bevel. Where a plane won't do because of the twist, a spokeshave could be used.
Planing down to the cuts. Between the moulds, the bevel changes gradually, which means some twist in the bevel. Where a plane won't do because of the twist, a spokeshave could be used.
 The first strake on the transom is faired and the keelson faired to that. The keelson is also cut back and planed flush.
The first strake on the transom is faired and the keelson faired to that. The keelson is also cut back and planed flush.
 The strakes on the transom were square before; now they have been bevelled to the correct angle to accept the planks.
The strakes on the transom were square before; now they have been bevelled to the correct angle to accept the planks.
 Some of the fairing done to the stem. The rest will be done when a pattern is made for the garboard (bottom strake)
Some of the fairing done to the stem. The rest will be done when a pattern is made for the garboard (bottom strake)
To begin planking, the three 8'x4' sheets of ply are cut into four 8'x2' sheets and four 4'x2' sheets, the 4' pieces to be scarfed to the 8' pieces to make 12' pieces. Scarfing involves planing a 8:1 slope in the ends of the ply sheets and then gluing the two faces to make a nice flush joint. To get the 8:1 slope, a gap of 40mm is marked on each sheet, and they are then placed in steps. This makes it easy to get the slope as the steps provide a nice guide. The plies provide a guide to the evenness of the slope.
To begin planking, the three 8'x4' sheets of ply are cut into four 8'x2' sheets and four 4'x2' sheets, the 4' pieces to be scarfed to the 8' pieces to make 12' pieces. Scarfing involves planing a 8:1 slope in the ends of the ply sheets and then gluing the two faces to make a nice flush joint. To get the 8:1 slope, a gap of 40mm is marked on each sheet, and they are then placed in steps. This makes it easy to get the slope as the steps provide a nice guide. The plies provide a guide to the evenness of the slope.
 The first two pieces are glued and clamped together to make one long piece. The boards used for clamping are taped with packaging tape to prevent them sticking to the glue. This is followed by scraping, planing and sanding to get a smooth joint.
The first two pieces are glued and clamped together to make one long piece. The boards used for clamping are taped with packaging tape to prevent them sticking to the glue. This is followed by scraping, planing and sanding to get a smooth joint.
 All four boards made up ready for planking.
All four boards made up ready for planking.
 A hardboard pattern for the garboard was made, then tranferred to the planking stock. Here we see the first fitting of the garboards after a few adjustments.
A hardboard pattern for the garboard was made, then tranferred to the planking stock. Here we see the first fitting of the garboards after a few adjustments.
© 1998-2009 Graham Finney - All copyrights rest with the Author
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